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Belge no: 3959
 
Çamlıhemşin / Fırtına Valley

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HISTORY
Historical researchs of Çamlıhemşin aren't reached certain conclusion, and it becomes topic about historical events which contain guesses.Amatuni's people who are administration of "hamam",are suffocated with Arabs.Firstly,they escape to Kars region and pass over the Çoruh River which mix with sea in Acaristan.At that time,they come to Tambur region which Byzantium Kayser VI.Konstantin donate to mr.Hamam for property.They make Tambur their own native countru and they make there merry.Because of this,there is called Hamam.a şen.(merry to Hamam) As the time goes on,this geoqraph's name become Hemşen/Hemşin. Turkoman/oqhuz Turk's people who come from Horosan-Hemedan-Elezeğ region,are mentioned Hemşenli/Hemşinli.

It is told that for the ancient Erzurum-Trabzon silk road was damaged and the Zigana mountain couldn'tbe passed through, Erzurum-Hevek high plateau-Hisarcık-Zilkale-Çamlıhemşin-Pazar road has been followed when climatehas been suitable.It is also told that there has been a natural harbour on the east exit point of the Pazar town today.Naming of this vicinity as "Old Trabzon" is putting a light on this hypothesis.Aditionally, it is clear that both Hala river and Büyükdere roads ofKaçkar's seaside way, are passing through the center of the townsuntil the ancient times.And also, it has been writtenthat thisregion and this roadhad beenused for going downto Black sea by some civilizations, in the book ofan ancient historian xenephon.The book named "coming back of ten thousands"(onbinlerin dönüşü).Xenephon told the story of 10000 soldiers who had to go back home when their commander had beenfleeced in the Fırat River in 400 B.C. And he also told that they had beenpoisened and had become sick because of the honey which bees make by taking the polens ofa kind of Rohododendronflower called Alpen Rose.This honey has been called as "mad man's honey" in this reglon in Vice-i Sufla village.This village's name is Down Çamlıca today.Other prooves for thisindictment are the Zilkale Castle(700 m altitude) and Kale-iBala Castle(2000 m altitude)which are connected with Pazar Castle.

These castles had been built by Kommennos between 1100-1300 A.C.And it is known that they had been used not only for the security of the region,but also,used as creals storage.

However Çamlıhemşin had been occupied by Russian Crazdom,Russians couldn't settle in here and they left the region.Because,it was far away from seaside and under the protection of the high mountains.Before becoming a small town Vicealtı was under the control of Pazar-Hemşin town with all other villages.And other downpart Laz villages were under the control ofArdeşen town.In 1953,Ardeşen has become larger town,Vicealtı has become a small town and it's name has been changed to Çamlıca and it took the control of Ardeşen.In 1961,on the 1st of April,it became a big town and it's name was changed to Çamlıhemşin.In 1912,population increased and ordered buildings was built for tailors,iron mongers,copper mongers,jewellers,shoe makers.Today,

Çamlıhemşin city center has 2300 population and with 24 villages under control total population reaches to 10.600.Also,it is one of the region's taking immigration.

GEOGRAPHY

Çamlıhemşin is established 22 km. to the sea,62 to Rize, 147 km. to Trabzon Airport.It is reached by going south highway to Fırtına River's west edge which reachs the sea in the entrance of Ardeşen that administrative district of Rize.The center of Çamlıhemşin's elevation is 285 m. And it's a 678 square kilometre administrative district.Fırtına River which takes it's water from the Kaçkar Mountain (3937 m.) and Verçenik Mountain's (3711 m.) foot, runs to the north of the region , and Çamlıhemşin has been established in the area that Hala and Büyükdere rivers which are the main arms of Fırtına River , become together.Hala River's start point is Kaçkar Mountain's foots. It's one arm is Ceymakçur-Balakçur River that is neighbour with Avusor River, comes from Kemerli Kaçkar (3600 m.).It's second arm is Hazindağ River which Gelintülü waterfall is came into being by and it comes from Samistal's foot that is in Memişefendi Hill (3400 m.) and goes on Ayder Thermal spring.Another arm of Hala River is Tar River which takes it's water from Altıparmak Mountain (3562 m.) on this river,there is Bulut Waterfall which is 350 m. that discovered by Türkü Tour.The big one of main arms Büyükdere's start point is Verçenik Mountain .It's one main arm comes from Ortayayla-Başhemşin and it goes to Çat with Varoş-Çiçekli River.Another it's main arm comes from Garmik,comes together with Haçevanak river in Elevit Valley and goes to Çat.One of the important and virgin arms of Büyükdere is Palovit river which comes from Apevanak ,comes together with Virandere and Samistal rivers.Maybe Palovit river is one of the important canyon of Turkey.Then,Hala and Büyükdere come together with Laz river which comes from Altıparmak and one of the big arm.Fırtına River is formed and it flows in to the sea in border of Ardeşen.

CLIMATE

This region is the most rainy area of Turkiye.A thickness of snow attains about 7-8 meter in December-January-February at elevation of 2000m. The most important colour 'Green' of region is seen in April and May.In these months,rain is not a lot,but it can change into snow at high place.July is called "A rotten month" because,it's so rainy.In these months,high areas are covered with mysterious "place fog"(yer dumanı).The plant cover start to change their colours in september,except Ladins which are prevalent kind of tree.These months enjoy with the sun and the nature is in an incredible colour pleasure.At the end of october,'white' which is a missing colour,comes with snowing from the high places.

PLATEAU CULTURE

One of the Çamlıhemşin's living source is "stock breeding" together with "being in a foreign land" and "agriculture of tea".The emigration of high plateau start in first week of june at elevation of 2000m. Animals are taken away to the high elevation because of insufficient pasture areas and mostly insects.The cleanliness of stable is done in the morning when animals are taken away to pasture.(This operation is told by German Prof.Karl Koch's travel book in 1843-44 in this way:Herkul's way of cleanliness of Auqias's stable is not a one way and this method is known by prehistoric period's people like today's east societies.) When animals come back to their stable,they are milked and their milks are put into pots that are called "ketoğ".Milk is poured into broad and shallow,wooden pot.In the second day,the cream which is over the milk,is taken. Then it is put into the cream pot and it is boiled.After that,it is leavened for making cheese.The main material of cheese yeast is three days old calf.The calf's stomach is taken and it's tied up.The stomach is dried and after one year,bitter plum ,garlic,salt and milk that it's cheese is taken are added to it. If the milk goes bad,it can be sifted and cheese made of curds (mimci) is obtained.The cheese is protected in a pot that is called "kolo" which is made of pine tree.The yogurt is leavened from the milk and also,the filtered yogurt is maken.All of the products are kept in the part of the wold house that is called "maran".In the wold,all oxes are taken to pasture which is used by only oxes by two shepherd per ox because ,cows can't be disturbed and they must be fed enough. Shepherds provide feeding of oxes healthfully for two months.Shepherds stay in a shelter that is surrounded with stones.At nights ,one quard is "first wrestler".Except these,people in Çamlıhemşin meet with their stranger and go to the high plateau for 10 days holiday and amusement.This amusement is called "vartavor"which is only for high plateaus.Vartavor means wetting each other with rose water and it symbolizes blessing.Also ,it is the time to fall in love. In every high plateau ,there is place for horon (special folkloric dance for Black sea Region).In this place people play bagpipe,dance horon and talk to each other singing folkloric songs, till late at night. During the day if the weather issuitable one-day tripsare organited.Some people qoes tofishing and qoes to pickpineresin from the pine trees. In the end of August, mid aged people who stayed in the village, qoes a trip to high plateautoobtain and stock the food which will be neededfor animals for thenext year.After this situation, there is no thing for people until 23 September which is an emigration day. Some things like bed-quilt are put up topiece of woad hang by the ropers that is called "tacor" and the sorrowful turning starts.

Today; tea which is a source of living for Black Sea,becomes widespread and this paralyze culture of high plateau.In the past,the maize's grain is sowed for necessary things like bread and feed;it wasn't used for commercial purpose. But now,the time of gather tea's disorder prevents going to high plateau together.Now,there is few high plateau which traditional vartavor festivals are done.

Finally, in Çamlıhemşin's high plateaus,milk is decomposed from the cream with milk machine not with a milk pot;the fire is burned in stove not in a fire place;people sleep in a bed that is made of sponge not a herb;number of houses die every year.Except these things,this high plateaus enjoy from concrete because of electricity, telephone and road. We see how Çamlıhemşin can succeed living in agenda.

KAÇKAR MOUNTAIN FLORA AND FAUNA

The vicinity with Fırtına Rivers is became topic about some scientific researches.In study about Flora of Rize, vegetation and vicinities honey's polen analysis'(TUBİTAK number of project:T.B.AG.650, Prof. Dr.Adil Güner andArk.1987 ) 1430 type is established.

In research that is named North-East Turkey Black sea Forest Project, Draft Botanical survey (By field,A.may 1995),says that in Fırtına River,there are 145 scarse type and 24 rarely scarce type and proportion of endemism is %17.

In the research of Çamlıhemşin-Elevit valley aboutpossibility of National Park (Kurdoğlu O.1994),the valley is appraised from the ecoloqical and cultural point of view, and in coclusion , its possibility of NationalPark'sproportionis very high.It is seen in pool that localand especially foreigner specialists and researchers who protect nature, use perfect dots generally about vicinity's biologicalcharacteristics and its value of source.

In East Black seaForestry Research Directoration report,it isstatedthat there is box treehaving a diameter of10-18 centimeter and 6-8 meter long.It is proposed that there must be distinguished by the areaof Natura Protect.

And in the researchaboutEast black sea's Natural old Forest ( O.Kurdoğlu,1996),it is proved that Fırtına River which contains National Park that decrease quickly and the most valuableeco-system in the Earth,must be protected.

Rize and it's vicinities are located in the colchis of Euro-Siberian flora region (three big flora region:Euro-Siberian,Irano-Turanian and mediterranean) from the geography of plant point of view.Euro-Siberian's flora area in Turkey divides into two part with Ordu-Melet River.It is named that east part is Colchis ,west part is öksin.Generally,the colchis flora part of Çamlıhemşin,there are mediterranean's flora elements and plants that origin ofIrano-Turanian.In this three groups of flora elements,the most rich one is colchis plants.In some researches about vicinity,colchis plants are established.

Pice orientalis(L) Link
Abies nordmanniana(Stev.)Spach
Pinus sylvestris L.Ssp.Hamata
Taxus baccata L.
Fagus Orientalis Lipsky
Ulmus glabra Huds
Acer Cappadocicum Gledit
Acer trautvetteri Medw.
Acer platanoidesL.
Castanea sativa Mill.
Alnus glutinosa(L)Gaertn.Ssp.barbata(C.A.mey.)Yalt Tilla rubra DC. Ssp.caucasica
Ostrya carpinifolia Scop.
Carpinus betulus L.
Diospyros lotus L.
Buxus sempervirens L.
Rhododendron ponticum L.
Rhododendron luteum Sweet
Rhododendron smirnovii Trautv.
Rhodedendron cucasicum Pall.
Rhododendron ungerni Trautv.
Osmanthus decorus (Boiss.Ball) Kasaplıgil
Quercus pontica C.Koch.
Betula medwediewii Regel
Rhamnus imeretinus Booth.
Rosa villosa L. :
Epigaea gaultheroides (Boiss et Ball)
Takth
Papaver lateritium Koch.
Lilium monadelphum Bieb.

PLANTSTHAT ORIGIN OF MEDITERRANEAN

E
Erica arborea L.
Arbutus andrachne L.
Arbutus unedo L.
Cistus creticus L.
Cistus salviifolius L.
Cotinus coggygria scop.
Rhus coriaria L.
Phillyrea latifolia L.
Juniperus oxycedrus L.
Ficus carica L.
Xianthemum nummularium (L)Mill.
Ruscus aculeatus L. :
Pistacia terebinthus L.Ssp.Palaestina
(Boiss.)Engler
Colutea armena Boiss.Et Huet.
Xeranthemum annuum L.
Teucrium polium L.
Eryngium campestre L.

PLANTS THAT ORIGIN OF IRANO-TURANIAN
Quercus macranthera Fisch
Ssp.Syspirensis :
Berberis crataegina DC.
Paliurus spina-christii Mill
Acer tataricum L.
Celtis glabrata Stev.
Celtis tournefortii Lam.
Rosa elymaitica Boiss. Et Hausskn.
Rosa pisiformis (Christ.) D. Sons.
Cotoneaster morulus Pojk.
Rhamnus pallasii Fisch. Et Mey.
Astragalus microcephalus Willd.
Astragalus aureus Willd.
Acantholimon libanoticum Bolss.
Salvia cryptantha Montbr.
Morina persica L.
Capparis ovata Dest. Var. Herbacea (Willd) Zoh.
Convolvulus cantabrica L.


BUSH FORMATION (Pseudomaki)

Pseudomaki which is a bush formation ,is dominant. It is formed by some moisture and dry bushes that approximately 100-250(300)m.In this bush formation,three big flora region come together in and any fitho-sociological unity is not formed .In this formation,some plants are established in the following.

Wooden Takson's
Quercus macranthera Fisch.
Subsp. Syspirensis
Ostrya carpinifolia Scop.
Acer divergens Pax.
Carpinus orientalis Mill.
Rhododendron luteum Sweet.
Quercus petraea (Matt) Liebl.
Ssp.iberica (Stev.) Krassiln.
Daphne pontica L.
Staphylea pinnata L.
Buxus sempervirens L.
Berberis vulgaris L.
Berberis crataegina DC.
Celtis glabrata Stev.
Crataegus monogyna Jacq.
Ficus carica L.
Arbutus andrachne L.
Cistus creticus L.
Laurus nobilis L.
Juniperus oxycedrus L.
Jasminum fruticans L.
Paliurus spina-christii Mill.
Cotoneaster morulus Pojk.

Herbaceouses
Ruscus aculeatus L.
Xeranthemum annuum L.
Teucrium polium L.
Centaurea iberica Trex. Ex Sprengel
Helleborus orientalis Lam.
Morina percisa L.
Eryngium campestre L. Var.Virens Link.
Pallenis spinosa (L.) Cass.
Galium aparine L.
Xantium spinosum L.
Lotus suaveolens Pers.
Galium coronatum Sibth. Et Sm.
Saponaria picta Boiss.
Hypericum pruniatum Boiss. Et Ball.
Viola odorata L.
Convolvulus cantabrica L.

There is one leafy forest zone on the bush formation between 200(300)-600(800)m. This plant group is called Ostryo-Carpinetum and plant elements which are in this plant group ,in the following:

Carpinus betulus L.
Ostrya carpinifolia Scop.
Castaena sativa Mill.
Alnus glutinosa (L.) Gaertn.
Ssp. barbata (C.Mey.) Yalt.
Acer platanoides L.
Acer campestre L.
Acer hyrcanum Fisch et Mey.
Ssp. syspirensis
Ulmus minor Mill.
Pinus sylvestris L. Ssp. hamata
Juniperus foetidissima Willd.
Juniperus excelsa bieb.

On the between 800-1400(1900)m,firstly there is fagetum forests which is a second group of leafy forest formation and secondly,picetum group which is a pin leafy fgroup. In this wide forest, some data was established in the following:

Fagus orientalis Lipsky.
Ulmus glabra Huds.
Tilia rubra DC. ssp. caucasica
Carpinus betulus L.
Acer cappadocicum Gleditsch
Acer platanoides L.
Quercus hartvissiana Stev.
Quercus pontica C.Koch.
Sorbus Torminalis(L)Crantz.
Sorbus aucuparia L.
Populus tremula L. :
Picea orientalis (L.)Link
Pinus sylvestris L.ssp.hamata
Abies nordmanniana Spach.
Taxus baccata L.

Between 1900-2100(2400)m.,after forest zone,we see another bush zone "subalpine".The important taksons of this bush zone which has a rich floristic property ,are in the following:

Rhododendron cvaucasicum Pall.
Rhododendron smirnovii Trautv.
Rhodedendron ungernii Trautv.
Sorbus aucuparia L.
Rosa villosa L.
Rosa Montana Chaix
Rosa elymaitica Boiss.Et Hausskn.
Rosa Pulverulenta Bieb.
Vaccinium myrtillus L.
Ribes oriantale Desf.
Viburnum lantana L.
Betula pendula Roth.
Populus Tremula L. :
Rhamnus imeretinus Booth.
Daphne glomerata Lam.

On the other hand, subalpin which is a meadow formation under this bush zone and one step above there. There is a lot of herbaceous taksons.

Ballota nigra L.
Stachys silvatica L.
Pedicularis condensata Bieb.
Aster caucasica Willd.
Alchemilla orthotricha Roth.
Trifolium pannonicum Jacg.
Agulegia olympica Boiss.
Lilium monadelphum Bieb.
Colchicum autumnala L.
Veratrum lobelianum Bernh.
Papaver lateritium Koch.
Anemone narcissiflora L.
Stachys macrantha (C.Koch.) Stearn
Kaçkar Mountains Fauna

Some researches and observations suggest that this river is rich with wild animals, too which is the result of unpaired vegetal and geomorfological condition .Although there isn't any invertory about mammals ,some researches showmain species:

Caperolos capreolus
Capra aegagrus
Rupicapra rupicapra
Sus scrofa
Ursus arctos
Canis aureus
Canis lupus
Vulpes vulpes
Felix silvertris
Lynx lynx
Martes martes
Mustela erminea
Mustela nivalis
Lutra lutra
Vormela peregusna
Putorius putorius
Sciurus vulgaris
Lepus europeus
Meles meles

FRESH-WATER ANIMALS:Fırtına River contains some rare fish species with other rivers in this region. This species are "salmo turutta" which is named "brown" or "local trout" and "salmo turutta labrax" which reach the sea and called "deniz alası" or "uneğ" in the vicinity.Deniz alası is only in East Black sea reagon except some country like scotland, sweeden. These are giving out species and last years, hunting is forbidden. Deniz alası live at the parts of the rivers that running fast, cold (14-16), clear and high amount of oxygen (7 mg-1). Especially,they prefer stony and pebbly areas and they are so sensivite about change of daily and seasonily water temperature because, they are cold water fishes. They are carnivonous. They prefer small fishes, krustates and molluscs. They go to the down part of rivers in the spring and summer because of nutriment. In the winter ,they go to the up parts of the riverbecause of fertilization in clear and high amount of oxygen.And they live their testicle into hole which they open by digging with their fin and body.Their fertilization periods start in september-october and continve till december-january.During this fertilization, they are so stress;they don't take nutriment and so ,their adaptation of this atmosphere grow diffucult. In addition, digging home for ovulation makes them exhausted. In the Deniz Alası's seasonily emigration, river's water level is one of the important factor.Increases of water level facilitate ozmotic regulasion because of decreases in it's discharge .Because of this,river's water level is important which effects river to seasea to river emigration.